The Mounting Problem of Textile Waste in India: Why EPR is the missing stitch

Walk into any municipal waste segregation site in a tier 2 or tier 3 city in India, and one alarming trend becomes evident- textile waste is winning the race to the landfill, filling up bins twice as fast as any other waste type. If we piled up all this discarded fabric over a year, we could build around 70 Taj Mahals (more details below)—though probably not as picturesque! India's textile waste crisis is spinning out of control, highlighting the urgent need for sustainable solutions like Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) to tackle this growing problem.

Currently, India generates 7.8 million tonnes of textile waste annually, contributing to 8.5% of global textile waste. This mountain of fabric includes 42% pre-consumer waste(the stuff that doesn’t even make it to stores), 51% post-consumer waste (our beloved worn-out clothes), and 7% imported waste(because clearly, we didn’t have enough of our own). With most of this ending up in landfills or incinerators, the textile-to-textile recycling rate is shockingly low—less than 1%. And if you think that old polyester t-shirt will simply disappear, think again! Synthetic fabrics like polyester, nylon, and spandex stick around for 20 to 200 years, while even natural fabrics can take anywhere from 2 months to 5 years to break down—depending on how "natural" they really are.

This silent crisis, often overshadowed by plastic pollution, is a growing environmental concern. While plastic waste has been demonized and regulated, textile waste quietly piles up in landfills and dumping grounds, escaping the same level of scrutiny. The irony? A huge chunk of it is plastic! Polyester, nylon, and spandex masquerade as fabric but shed microplastics , infiltrating our environment.

The Rise of Fast Fashion and Disposable Clothing

One of the primary drivers of this surge in textile waste is the proliferation of cheap, low-quality clothing. The fashion industry has shifted towards fast fashion, making trendy apparel accessible at extremely low prices. However, the downside of affordability is durability—or the lack thereof. Clothes made from synthetic fibres or mixed materials degrade quickly, prompting consumers to discard them sooner than traditional, high-quality garments.

In smaller cities, where purchasing power is growing but sustainable consumer habits are yet to catch up, this trend is particularly pronounced. The influx of inexpensive fashion items, often bought in bulk, leads to rapid turnover in wardrobes and, consequently, excessive textile waste.

The Problem with Textile Waste Management

Unlike plastic or metal waste, which have relatively established recycling markets, textile waste faces multiple challenges:

1. Lack of Segregation at Source– While urban centers are making strides in waste segregation, smaller cities still struggle with source separation. Used textiles often end up mixed with other waste streams, making recovery and recycling difficult.
2. Limited Recycling Infrastructure– India has a well-developed informal sector for plastic and metal recycling, but textile recycling remains largely underdeveloped. The lack of dedicated processing units for textile waste means most discarded clothes end up in landfills or incinerators.
3. Micro-plastic Pollution– A significant portion of modern clothing contains synthetic fibers such as polyester and nylon. When disposed of improperly, these fibers shed micro-plastics into the environment, contaminating soil and water bodies.
4. Lack of Consumer Awareness– Many people are unaware of the environmental impact of textile waste. Unlike plastic, which has been demonized in environmental discourse, textile waste does not receive the same attention, leading to rampant disposal without a thought for sustainability.

The Way Forward

Addressing the textile waste problem requires a multi-pronged approach that involves policymakers, businesses, and consumers alike. Some possible solutions include:

1. Promoting Sustainable Fashion Choices– Encouraging consumers to invest in durable, high-quality clothing and supporting brands that promote sustainability can slow down the cycle of fast fashion.
2. Developing Textile Recycling Infrastructure– Establishing dedicated textile recycling units and supporting businesses that focus on circular fashion can create an ecosystem where discarded textiles find new life.
3. Consumer Awareness Campaigns– Educating the public about textile waste and promoting practices like upcycling, donation, and responsible disposal can go a long way in reducing landfill burden.
4. Regulations and Producer Responsibility– Policies similar to Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) in plastic waste management should be introduced for textiles, holding manufacturers accountable for the lifecycle of their products.
5. Encouraging Local Circular Economy Models– India has a rich history of reusing and repurposing textiles. Strengthening local thrift stores, repair shops, and fabric repurposing industries can integrate traditional sustainability practices with modern solutions.

Conclusion

The rapid accumulation of textile waste in India’s smaller cities is a ticking environmental bomb. Without urgent intervention, the problem will only escalate, contributing to pollution, resource wastage, and landfill overflow. Addressing this issue requires a collective effort—one that involves conscious consumer choices, government policies, and innovations in waste management. Only then can we hope to create a truly sustainable future where fashion doesn’t come at the cost of the planet.